Ay Chihuahua

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Poor maligned Chihuahua. It's getting a very bad rap these days.

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Supposedly it is the state with the worst drug-related violence in all of Mexico. Home to Ciudad Juarez, homicide capital of the world. Makes Baghdad look like Kansas.

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Had to cool my heels for a couple of days in the capital city, Chihuahua, recently. I've been in worse places. They were very nice to me at the bar pictured above, but charged me double for my drinks. In a location with such a violent reputation I wasn't going to argue about it. I guess if you walk into a place called Bar Turista you get what you deserve.

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Impressions: The cab driver who didn't want to take me to the hotel I asked for because he wouldn't earn a commission there. The French hotel manager at the local outpost of a mid-price international chain, who seemed to go out of his way to tell me how happy he was to be working in Chihuahua.

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The lawyer in the cantina who insisted in speaking some form of English to me that I couldn't quite understand. To be diplomatic, I told him that I wanted to practice my Spanish. He ignored me and kept speaking "English." The Chinese restaurant where I saw the boxing match on TV.

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City of statues and mannequins.

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I saw families and old ladies around town. They always makes me feel safe. Two days was enough, though.

Santa María and Jesús

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The gazebo in this photo was Mexico's contribution to the 1884 World's Fair, held in New Orleans. Given its Moorish design, it was known as the "Mexican Alhambra Palace." After the fair, the cast-iron structure was disassembled, brought back to Mexico City in pieces, and rebuilt in the Alameda Central. From its perch lottery winners were announced. Around 1910, it was replaced by the Monument to Benito Juárez (now on Avenida Juárez) and moved to the Alameda of a neighborhood called Santa María la Ribera.

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Santa María la Ribera is one of my favorite areas of the city. It has had a bad rep since the 1840s, when a citizen council complained to federal authorities of thugs who roamed the area. Today, it's a traditional neighborhood, full of cantinas, modest restaurants and snack shops, that is in the process of gentrification. You can tell it's on the rise due to the proliferation of internet cafes, gyms, coffee houses and other businesses that tend to be patronized by the middle class. My friend Jesús Chairez (who has several blogs and websites about Mexico City) lucked out when he found an incredible apartment with this balcony that overlooks the Alameda. Everyone's luck runs out, though. He says his landlady is selling the building.

Museum of murdered matadors

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One night not long ago, the manager of a cantina called La Faena in the centro told me the place had been around for 40 years. But even the glasses look older than that. Many cantinas are decorated to reflect a passion for bullfighting but La Faena, at Calle Venustiano Carranza 49, is the bullfight cantina por excelencia.

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There are mosaic tiles, clay molding and the coats of arms of various Mexican states in relief. It is huge and there are almost never any clients in evidence, which gives it a solemn, almost funereal air. So it's a good option to meet someone with whom you would prefer not to be seen, or fifty of your closest friends.

What is most fascinating about La Faena is a series of showcases, inside of which are an exhibition of bullfighters' costumes, which belonged to well known matadors (like Juan Belmonte and El Soldado) as well as long-forgotten novices. The suits are so decrepit they appear to me crumbling into dust before your eyes.

Bless this house

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Looking for a barber shop nearby to my New Orleans apartment, I saw this house on Franklin Avenue, near St. Claude. Its message may be clear but the owner left a few details ambiguous. Is he saying that the Lord protects his house? Or that he actually lives there?