Island of the dolls

Only an accountant could have come up with the maxim that a picture is worth a thousand words. Still, some things elude description, and if there are pictures to go along with the words, you may come up with the right combination. In my book First Stop in the New World, there is a short chapter about a man named Julián, who used to live in the Xochimilco section in the south of the Mexico City. There is an enclave in Xochimilco that is made up of a series of canals, in the middle of which are small islands known as chinampas.

The incredible story goes that one day Julián heard the cries of a woman drowning in the canal near his chinampa, and although he dove in the water and tried to save her, she died. Yet he kept hearing her cries, perpetually, nightly. As talismans to ward off her spirit, he began to hang dolls from the trees around his house. Throughout the decades he became a Xochimilco legend, and people brough him dolls from far and wide.

Now there are hundreds of them, suspended from trees, from metal wires, on the walls of the dilapidated shacks on the property. They look like images that might have appeared in a nightmare or a low-budget horror film. Some are green with verdigris, many are naked, others with matted, windswept hair. Julián died in 2005. Now his nephew administers the place.

Latest fashion

Enterprising as they may be, these vendors were not moving many of these spectacular Mohawk hairpieces the other day at the traffic intersection of Insurgentes and Xola. It's tough to make a living these days, particularly in Mexico City, where most citizens are conservative about their coiffes.

Insight

In Mexico City, the blind leading the blind is not precisely a figure of speech. It is fairly common to see one unsighted person walking with a cane, followed by two or three equally visionless cohorts, each with a hand on the shoulder or waistband of the person in front of him. I found this threesome on the metro, and asked the leader if I could help them up the closest staircase. He refused, saying he would prefer to go down the aisle to find the escalator. "Soy medio güevón," he explained, which means, more or less, "I'm kind of a lazy bastard."

Insurance

Could it be that Mexico City is hard-up for travelers? The other day the Minister of Tourism announced that, as of August 1, any visitor to the D.F. will automatically receive a free medical insurance policy, which includes coverage in case of swine flu. But that's not all: the policy also covers any kind of illness, accident, dental emergencies, shipping of dead bodies to funeral parlors, and legal assistance for stolen or lost documents. At the same press conference, the president of the Mexico City Hotel Owners' Association said that members reported occupancy at 60 per cent, more or less the level before the swine flu scare. The insurer is the Spanish underwriter Mapfre.